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![]() CHAPTER
XII
WOMAN AS
DECORATION WHEN SKATING
O
be
decorative when skating, two
things are necessary: first,
know how
to
skate; then see to it that
you are costumed with
reference to
appropriateness,
becomingness and the outline
demanded by the
fashion
of
the moment.
The
woman who excels in the
technique of her art does
not always excel in
dressing
her rôle. It is therefore
with great enthusiasm that we
record Miss Theresa
Weld
of Boston, holder of Woman's
Figure Skating Championship, as
the most
chicly
costumed woman on the ice of
the Hippodrome (New York)
where amateurs
contested
for the cup offered by Mr.
Charles B. Dillingham, on March
23, 1917,
when
Miss Weld again won,--this
time over the men as
well as the women.
Miss
Weld combined good work with
perfect form, and her edges,
fronts, ins, outs,
threes,
double-threes, etc., etc.,
were a delight to the eye as
she passed and
repassed
in
her wine-coloured velvet,
trimmed with mole-skin, a
narrow band on the
bottom
of
the full skirt (full to
allow the required amount of
leg action), deep cuffs, and
a
band
of the same fur encircling
the close velvet toque. This
is reproduced as the
ideal
costume because, while
absolutely up-to-date in line,
material, colour and
character
of fur, it follows the
traditional idea as to what is
appropriate and
beautiful
for a skating costume,
regardless of epoch. We have
seen its ancestors in
many
parts of Europe, year after
year. Some of us recall with
keen pleasure, the
wonderful
skating in Vienna and Berlin on
natural and artificial ice,
invariably
hung
with flags and gaily lighted
by night. We can see now,
those German girls,--
some
of them trim and good to look
at, in costumes of sapphire blue, deep
red, or
green
velvet, fur trimmed,--gliding
swiftly across the ice, to
the irresistible
swing
of
waltz music and accompanied by flashing
uniforms.
In
the German-speaking countries
everyone skates: the
white-bearded grandfather
and
the third generation going
hand in hand on Sunday
mornings to the nearest
ice-
pond.
With them skating is a
communal recreation, as beer garden
concerts are.
With
us in America most sports are
fashions, not traditions.
The rage for
skating
during
the past few seasons is
the outcome of the
exhibition skating done by
professionals
from Austria, Germany,
Scandinavian countries and
Canada, at the
New
York Hippodrome. Those who
madly danced are now as
madly skating. And
out
of town the young women
delight the eye in bright
wool sweaters, broad, long
wool
scarfs and bright wool caps, or
small, close felt hats,--fascinating
against the
white
background of ice and snow. The boots
are high, reaching to top of
calf, a
popular
model having a seam to the
tip of the toe.
No
sport so perfectly throws
into relief command
of the body as does
skating.
Watch
a group of competitors for
honours at any gathering of
amateur women
skaters
and note how few
have command of themselves--know
absolutely what
they
want to do, and then
are able to do it. One
skater, in the language of
the ice,
can
do the actual work, but
has no form. It may be she
lacks temperament, has
no
abandon,
no rhythm; is stiff, or,
while full of life, has bad
arms. It is as necessary
that
the fancy skater should
learn the correct position
of the arms as that the
solo
![]() dancer
should. Certain lines must
be preserved, say, from fingers of
right arm
through
to tip of left foot, or from
tip of left hand through to
tip of right foot.
PLATE
XV
A
portrait by John S. Sargent.
(Metropolitan
Museum,
painted about 1890.)
We
have here a distinguished example of
the
dignity
and beauty possible to a costume
characteristic
of the period when
extreme
severity
as to outline and elimination of
detail
followed
the elaboration of Victorian
ruffles,
ribbons
and lace over hoops and bustle;
curled
hair and the obvious cameo
brooch,
massive
bracelets and chains.
Metropolitan
Museum of Art
Late
Nineteenth Century Costume
about
1890
A
Portrait by John S.
Sargent
"Form"
is the manipulation of the
lines of the body to produce
perfect balance,
perfect
freedom and, when required,
perfect control in arrested
motion. This is the
mastery
which produces in free skating
that "melting" of one figure
into another
which
so hypnotises the onlooker. It is
because Miss Weld has
mastered the above
qualifications
that she is amateur champion
in fancy skating. She has
mastered her
![]() medium;
has control of every muscle
in her body. In consequence
she is decorative
and
delightful to watch.
To
be decorative when not on
skates, whether walking,
standing or sitting, a
woman
must have cultivated the
same feeling for line,
her form must be good. It
is
not
enough to obey the A. B. C.'s of
position; head up, shoulders
back, chest out,
stomach
in. One must study
the possibilities of the
body in acquiring and
perfecting
poses
which have line, making
pictures with one's
self.
In
the Art
of Interior Decoration we insist
that every room be a
beautiful
composition.
What we would now impress
upon the mind of the
reader is that she is
a
part of the picture and must
compose with her setting. To
do this she should
acquire
the mastery of her body, and
then train that body
until it has acquired
"good
habits"
in the assuming of line, whether in
action or repose. This can be done to
an
astonishing
degree, even if one lacks
the instinct. To be born
with a sense of line
is
a
gift, and the development of
this sense can give
artistic delight to those
who
witness
the results and thrill them
quite as sculpture or music, or
any other art
does.
The
Greek idea of regarding the
perfectly trained body as a
beautiful temple is one
to
keep in mind, if woman would
fulfil her obligation to be
decorative.
Form
means efficiency, if properly
understood and carried out
according to the
spirit,
not the letter of the
law. Form implies the
human body under control,
ready
for
immediate action. The man or
woman with form,
will be the first to fall
into
action
when required, because, so to
speak, no time is lost in
collecting and aiming
the
body.
One
of the great points in the
teaching of the late
Theodore Leschetizky, the
world's
greatest
master in the art of piano
playing, was that the hand
should immediately
assume
the correct position for
the succeeding chord, the
instant it was lifted
from
the
keys;--preparedness!
The
crack regiments of Europe,
noted for their form,
have for years been the
object
of
jests in those new worlds where
brawn and muscle, with
mental acumen, have
converted
primeval forests into
congested commercial centers. But
that form, so
derided
by the pioneer spirit, has
proved its worth during
the present European
war.
The
United States and the
Central Powers are now at
war and military guards
have
been
stationed at vulnerable points.
Only to-day we saw one of
Uncle Sam's
soldiers,
one of three, patrolling the
front of a big armory,--standing in
an
absolutely
relaxed position, his gun
held loosely in his hand,
and its bayonet
propped
against the iron fence. One
could not help thinking;
no form,
no
preparedness,
no efficiency. It goes without
saying that prompt obedience
cannot
be
looked for where there is
lack of form, no matter how
willing the spirit.
The
modern woman when on
parole,--walking, dancing, driving,
riding or engaged
in
any sport, to be efficient
must have trained the
body until it has form, and
dress it
appropriately,
if she would be efficient as
well as decorative in the
modern sense of
the
term. No better illustration of
our point can be found than
in the popular sport
cited
at the beginning of this
chapter.
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